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DNO - In Hoi An, Da Nang, chicken rice has the same tenderness as its Hainanese counterpart but a brighter medley. Alongside, the Hoi An signature dish is considered "a conduit for hospitality".
According to The South China Morning Post, a Hong Kong–based English-language newspaper, Hoi An chicken rice features golden rice, shredded chicken with a tangy, herbal twist, and sweet heat from a sticky red chili jam. Here, rice serves as the warm foundation of a salad.
The classic Hoi An method is similar to that in Singapore, Malaysia and Thailand: free-range chicken is gently poached in a broth with ginger and shallots, then removed and shredded. The poaching liquid cooks the rice, which is first toasted in chicken fat. Often, the rice is cooked with turmeric, which contributes to its yellow hue.
Once the rice is ready, the shredded meat is scattered over it with sliced white onion, Vietnamese coriander (rau ram) and crisp green papaya. A small savory bowl of broth, often containing chicken offal and cubes of blood, makes the meal more substantial.
The biggest difference is the dressing, which includes fish sauce, lime juice, garlic, ginger and chilies. The other accompanying sauces set Hoi An’s version apart. Unlike the fresh red chili sauces served with Singaporean or Malaysian chicken rice, the chili condiment is closer to a jam.
In the Vietnamese version, chilies are cooked with tomato, garlic, oil, sesame and seasoning until thick and glossy. Rather than for dipping, it is stirred through the chicken and rice. Diners can use lime, fresh chili, fish sauce and soy sauce to adjust the balance of a dish that is richer and more refreshing than its culinary cousins in the region.
For chef de cuisine Tran Thanh Cong at La Sen at Four Seasons Resort The Nam Hai, Hoi An, the dish is a conduit for hospitality. When a guest asks why the sauce is sweet, why rau ram is there or why the rice is yellow, the meal becomes a conversation about place, travel and inheritance.